There is a short, not very well marked track to the left bank of this stream, to the base of the high waterfall which drops several hundred metres and feeds the stream (sometimes dries in summer). This track quickly becomes steep, but it is well worth the effort. At the base of the waterfall the rocks are angular and black and the raw elements of rock, water and bush intermingle to create a primordial landscape. For amateur botanists keep an eye out for Metrosideros carminea growing amongst the rocks at the waterfall base. Some adventurous souls descend by way of the stream bed which, although rather energetic, is interesting - watch for slick rocks however. The D.O.C. track follows the narrowing estuary along a flat grassy area we call the kikuyu flats, with steep forest and rocky bluffs either side of the valley. Tall Pohutakawa tumble down the sheer cliff face.

 

At the end of this where the track crosses the Wairakau Stream there is a beautiful crystal clear swimming hole, bordered on the left by sheer rock cliffs and on the right by a grassy clearing. (It’s a really “magic” place). Follow the markers across the clearing to the end, where the track crosses two converging streams then climbs steadily, at a very easy gradient, up the Sherman valley through regenerating forest to a saddle. It then descends along an old farm road through the forest to the end (or beginning) of the track situated 400m up Campbell Road , Totara North.

N.B. The Wairakau is normally a placid stream, but may rise in spate following heavy rain. Do not attempt the crossing in these conditions. The stream falls very quickly to normal.

Totara North Walk

Length: 1.5km Time. 45 minutes Anchor at Totara North.

From the wharf to the Gumstore is a pleasant evening’s walk along the waterfront road. Traverse a wooden boardwalk across a small cove lined with ancient gnarled pohutakawa tress…. Pass the old timber mill where once, a century ago, beautiful square-rigged sailing ships were built… then opposite the mill, on the other side of the road, a search by ear will reveal a beautiful, shady, cascading stream, hidden from sight 3m behind bush beside an old shed… abrief respite… then continue following the winding road with lovely vistas of the harbour and forested hills with their occasional rocky outcrops.

Past the Frear’s family farm - a beautiful long peninsula on the other side of the Mill Bay anchorage of Totara North and ending at Cape Horn ! (It’s true, its on the map!)

Then down a rise to the picturesque Gumstore. Established in 1890, over a century ago and beautifully restored, the Gumstore Bar & Grill is nestled amongst the mangroves at the high tide mark beside the road. Your pleasant walk will be amply rewarded by a healthy appetite satisfied by the excellent good food and drink served by host Gary Sanderson.

A Bit of history… “Coming back from Waihapa inlet towards the harbour, we pass the site of the village of Saies , hidden in the mangroves, as it has been for 70 years. If we ventured up the creek at full tide, we could land at the very door of the old store of Molesworth and Saies, where in bygone years, sacks and sacks of golden resin crossed the threshold, and from whence pack-horses departed for the gum-fields at Kahoe, Takakuri, Otoroa, and the many other districts where the gum diggers worked. Molesworth and Saies developed an extensive series of gum depots throughout the northern territory, even as far as Te Kao on the most northerly peninsula. Stores were packed to the diggers by horses, and the gum transported back to the home store at Saies village. The tide still floods at high water to the door of the old store, at the back of which was the gum room. The main store itself not long ago housed relics - colonial ovens, storm lanterns, and other old-fashioned reminders of the hardships of the pioneers.” A description of The Gumstore at Saies, by Dr. C.S. Williams, in 1951

Low tide Western arm walk

At low tide you can meander from one end of the western arm to the other. Get someone to drop you at one end in the dinghy, and 2 hrs later pick up at the other end.

In army bay is a short walk to an old gun placement. A concrete bunker is able to be entered and you can imagine the scene …… A very interesting perspective on whangaroa. Also another one is on Kingfish point. During world war 2 the heads were fitted with submarine nets as the Army and navy thought if there was to be a foreign invasion, a good place for the enemy to come to was Whangaroa, offering a safe and sheltered harbour. The soldiers here at this time had a very quiet war, with plenty of fishing.

Ohauroro Island was once a thriving Maori Pa/settlement. This, then heavily bushed, stronghold guarded the harbour from invaders, and the Ngatipou, who lived here, were in a suitable place for intercepting and occasionally raiding visiting ships. As daylight flooded the outer harbour, Rev W. White sailing towards Ohauroro Island aboard the Schooner, ‘St. Michael’ in June 1823 commented “… ( Peach Island ) was the Ngatipou stronghold of Te Pere. Canoes from the village on the slops of the island crowded around the ship. Up the harbour could be seen more villages, beautiful bays and areas of cultivated land. One interpretation of the word Ohauroro could be a "wind in the brain". Present elders agree that the winds coming through the heads can be strong. At the summit of the island there can be winds of considerable strength. Ohauroro ( Peach Island ), later abandoned as a pa, was noted in the spring for a blaze of soft pink blossoms. Here the seedling peach tree grew to perfection, and it was for this that the island received its European name.

 

kayaking Sea caves are found at the heads on both east and west sides. About 1 kmnorth west of the heads on the way to Taupo Bay is Whangaroa’s “hole in the rock” cut into the cliff face. You can navigate through this. Between here and the heads is a fantastic piece of coast for exploration by kayak. Remember the Maple Leaf is not allowed past the heads, but if you anchor in Ranfurly Bay you can kayak around. Be careful of boat traffic at the heads. Outside of the heads is open ocean so pick your day and tides and watch conditions.Between Army Bay and Lane Cove and infact anywhere along the western arm is world class. Rocks, islets and many nooks and crannies to explore. The Wairakau stream and canyon is another favourite sheltered spot. Go in on the high tide and out on the outgoing. At low tide it is muddy and dries toonly a few centimeters.

Great for those new to kayaking - safe within the harbour, but not “tame!” fiordesque scenery, river inlet, waterfalls, towering rocky bluffs, unusual rock formations, little rocky islands - aquatic rock gardens - just off the shore making idyllic passageways perfect for kayak exploration.Plus, a unique opportunity for the experienced sea-kayaker to explore and discover the east coast of the Far North of N.Z. which abounds in a diversity of fascinating topography … intricate and spectacular sea caves and grottos, tunnels and huge arches, tiny rocky islets close in to the rocky indented coastline and beautiful sandy beaches and bays, some hidden and inaccessible from the land (- no roads), plus larger lovely islands within kayaking distance. Stretch your muscles kayaking to your heart’s content then come home to instant hot , hot showers; real comfy beds; ( sleeps 6 - 8); full galley; on deck BBQ; fridge/freezer and chilly bins; … space … and beauty.Several threatened plants such as Calystegia marginata, Pimelea tomentosa and Coprosma neglecta  “whangaroa” are present. At the southern end of the harbour, south of Red Island, there are small but important areas of mangrove/salt marsh wetlands and tidal rivers with banded rail and fernbird.

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